Does Your Horse's Saddle Fit?

Is your horse exhibiting uncharacteristic performance or behavior issues? Well then, check his saddle. Badly fitting saddles account for a vast array of issues in the horse.

Yet they often go undetected, either because people don't recognize the signs and symptoms of an improperly fitting saddle, or because they have no idea how to fix the problem.

This lack of knowledge can hurt our horses physically, diminish their ability to reach their full potential, and even label them as unpleasant or dangerous characters.

Of course, saddle fit can't be blamed for all behavior and performance issues in the horse, but it is something that should always be considered.

If you don't have the knowledge to determine whether your horse's saddle fits, enlist the help of a competent saddle fitter right away.

Characteristics of Reputable Breeders

The first challenge that you will face if you are planning of obtaining a golden retriever pup is its source. As a matter of fact, it is somewhat impossible to determine whether or not the golden retriever pup will grow healthy, no matter what you do. In order to assume that your golden retriever pup will grow up healthy, the breeder that your pup came from must have good reputation.

There are few factors that you must consider in choosing the right breeder of golden retrievers. It is essential that you must thoroughly think each of your choices. Below are some of the few factors that must take into consideration. These will help you choose the right breeder.

Backyard Golden Retriever Breeder

These types of golden retriever breeders are regarded as a poor option in selecting a puppy. Mostly, these types of breeder are people who possess few golden retrievers. These types of breeders realized that it is fun breeding their female golden retriever because of its puppies while some of them breed their canine pet once or twice before opting to spay their canine. They mostly do not care on the quality of litters and care for them. They mostly mind the money that they would get in selling the litters.

Basically, most of these types of breeders have either little or no knowledge on the basics of breeding golden retrievers. Even a few of them have less knowledge on how to properly care their canine pet. Mostly, they have no knowledge regarding the problems in breeding golden retriever and would mostly care even less. All they want is to make their canines produce litters for additional income. They would usually sell the litters as soon as the puppies are bred.

Dealers or Pet Shops

Pet shops or pet dealers are the in fact considered as the worst place to obtain a golden retriever puppy, that is because the puppies that they sell are bred or brought up poorly and are mostly bred on poor environments. Pet shops consider the golden retriever puppies as merchandises that must be profited. Pet shops mostly do not care on the quality of the puppy; they usually care about the quantity.

And because of the way the golden retriever puppies are bred and brought up, they usually make quite bit of income. Mostly, they spend small amount on the breeding and the caring of the litters. Basically, pet shops rely on “impulse buying”. This is done by simply not giving the buyer a sufficient amount of time to assess the golden retrievers that they sell. So if you are looking for a golden retriever pup this is not a good place to get one.

Hobby Breeders

This is probably the best way to obtain a golden retriever pup, mostly because hobby breeders of golden retrievers are trustworthy and committed in caring and quality of the golden retriever litters. And because of that, hobby breeders care more on the quality side and nothing else. Mostly, they will assist you in raising the best golden retriever pup because they dedicate themselves in raising the best one.

So if you want to have the best golden retriever pup, all you need is to visit a hobby breeder, because hobby golden retriever breeders understand their responsibility in each and every one of their puppies. Hobby breeders seldom breed poor quality pups. If you obtained your golden retriever pup from these types of source, then you are guaranteed that you have a healthy pup.

Adult Cats are Fun Too - Adopt An Older Cat

You’ve finally made the decision to adopt a cat, you’ve dreamt about it for quite some time. Visualising your cute new little kitten playing around the floor and looking up at you with those big baby blues. What could possibly go wrong, after all it’s only a tiny kitten. But have your really thought about how much time, effort and trouble a kitten really is. A kitten is packed full of energy and curiosity and will cry for attention, scratch the furniture, bite and urinate everywhere until it is litter box trained, and will run around the house getting into all sorts of scrapes and trouble. And it’s up to you to look after them 24/7. If you’ve got the time and dedication to look after a kitten, great, but if not, why not think about adopting an adult cat.

A lot of potential adopters seem to think of an adult cat as second best, as if they are defective or worn out like a second hand car. That’s just not the case. Most adult cats have found themselves in animal shelters from no fault of their own. They may have out lived their owner, their owners may have moved to somewhere that doesn’t allow pets, become lost or someone in the family may have become allergic to them. The reasons are far to numerous to list them all. The cats themselves are perfectly healthy animals, bristling with fun and energy and simply looking for a caring loving home.

Adopting an adult cat has many advantages. Remember an older cat has already developed its personality. So you will know what kind of pet they will be and whether or not they will suit your family. Many people go for the cute little kitten; only to find out that they grow into a very shy and non-playful cat that likes to spend all it’s time away from the family. That’s fine if that’s what you want, but too many people decide that this is not for them and returns the cat to the shelter. Rejection is a very harsh punishment for the cat just because you didn’t take the time to think about what sort of cat would be the right pet for your family.

An older cat will also be less demanding of your time than a kitten and will require less supervision, well after the first few weeks anyway. They will be able to spend time alone when you are out of the house without getting into too much trouble and hopefully will already be litter trained.

There are also many benefits for older owners in adopting an adult cat. Adult cats are much calmer and more likely to want to spend some quiet time sitting on your lap for strokes and purring. Studies have shown that cats can have a real health benefit for humans in reducing their stress levels and blood pressure. I can’t image an energetic curious kitten being as good for your stress levels somehow.

Many worry about health problems and vet bills for the older cat. Usually when you are adopting a cat from an animal shelter they will be able to let you know if the cat has any underlining medical conditions and what it is likely to cost. Many will even provide you with free medical treatment for your cat if they over 10 years old as an incentive for more of the older cats to be re-homed.

Cats can live well into their late teens and even early twenties with all the advances in food nutrition and medical treatments. So that 12 year old cat waiting in the animal shelter for a good home is still a good bet and will still be able to provide you with many years of fun and love. Our own cat is now 14 years old and still behaves like a playful youngster and keeps us entertained for hours.

It can be a very rewarding experience to adopt an older cat, not only because of the pleasure they will give you over the years but also in the knowledge that you have provided a loving home for what was probably a very frightened and confused cat, who had no idea why he had lost his family.

Hunting Dogs

How does one choose good hunting dogs without getting stung? Many dog breeders are like horse traders—you get what you get, and that isn't what was listed. So a dog breeder's reputation, letters of reputation or phone calls, and looking at siblings or mother and father of the dog means a lot when looking for good hunting dogs. Make sure they have some form of guarantee and for how long they guarantee the puppy or dog.

But what is good for one hunter may not mean the same for another, so make sure you know what you want before going out and looking. Do you want versatile good hunting dogs for all-purpose hunting, or one that is excellent at squirrel hunting or coon hunting? Look at where they will be living the remaining time—will it it he be a family member? Make sure the breed you want is one you have information on and have done your homework on. Just because grandpa had one doesn't mean you know what you need to know regarding the purchase of good hunting dogs.

Good hunting dogs need to be disease from and have clean genetic lines, regardless the breed. Make sure routine worming has been done as a puppy—which has usually been done from two weeks. Also, look at their shot records—did they receive a two-week puppy shot series with only two weeks between them, beginning around five or six weeks? Once the puppy is weaned from its mother, its immune system becomes compromised, and it is up to the breeder to maintain that system up to eight weeks of age when it leaves the next. A breeder who sells before then is not worth his/her weight in salt. Good hunting dogs mean that—a good hunting dog, not one that is haphazardly bred to make a quick buck. Georgia is famous for good hunting dogs, as most Georgia hunters think more of their dogs than anywhere else, but make sure you don't get a bad breeder anyway.

Canine Parvovirus - A Serious Cantagious Disease in Dogs

Canine parvovirus, sometimes known simply as 'parvo,' is a serious contagious disease caused by a virus. This illness is spread when dogs come into contact with the feces of infected animals. Dog parks, highway rest stops and popular walking trails in cities are areas where dog feces are often found, and where an unvaccinated dog may pick up the virus. Humans may also unknowingly bring the virus home on the bottom of their shoes or on their car tires, so dogs who never go outside the yard can still be infected with this disease. The virus can live in the soil or other contaminated surfaces for as long as six months.

Most animal shelters and kennels make every effort to avoid the spread of contagious diseases by cleaning the kennels with bleach, but any time that large numbers of animals are kept in close quarters, there is a possibility of infection, so keeping up on your dog's vaccinations is always a good idea.

Although puppies are more commonly affected by this illness than adult dogs, both my brother and I once owned adult dogs who became seriously ill from canine parvovirus. Both animals had been vaccinated while in our care, but they were acquired after the dogs had reached adulthood, so they may not have received proper vaccination as puppies. Both dogs recovered, but only after several weeks of intensive in-hospital care.

Since this virus attacks the lining of the dog or puppy's digestive system, the symptoms of the disease are diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy, lack of appetite, and bloody, foul-smelling stools. In addition to severe abdominal discomfort, bloody diarrhea and vomiting, the dog may also have a high fever, and congestive heart failure is possible. Severe symptoms may follow several days of gradually decreasing appetite. Illness usually becomes apparent from three to 12 days after the dog was exposed to the virus.

Obviously, this is a very serious disease, and immediate medical care is required to reduce the risk of death. The veterinarian will make sure to keep the dog from becoming dangerously dehydrated, which can keep the dog or puppy alive long enough for its own immune system to fight the disease. Antibiotics are not effective against this virus, but they are usually given to an infected animal to help prevent the occurrence of secondary bacterial infections, which can cause shock or septicemia. Secondary infections can occur without antibiotics because parvovirus suppresses the dog's ability to make white blood cells. A blood test showing a low white blood cell count is one of the ways a veterinarian can make a diagnosis of canine parvovirus.

Because the illness causes severe dehydration, the dog will also be put on intravenous fluids, and the animal will probably need to stay under the doctor's care a week or more. Because the gastrointestinal tract has been affected, the veterinarian may withhold food and water from the dog until the virus has come under control.

Unfortunately, some dogs and puppies who survive a bout of parvovirus can be affected by symptoms six months or more after the original symptoms, particularly if the virus has infected the heart.

To prevent infection, puppies must be vaccinated under the proper schedule, and they should not be taken outside the yard or introduced to any other dogs until at least two weeks after the last puppy shots are administered. Some veterinarians and dog breeders suggest that you avoid dog parks entirely, even after your puppy has been vaccinated, because of the possibility of picking up this or other contagious canine illnesses. If you adopt an older dog from the local shelter, you should take him to your veterinarian for a checkup and ask that he be vaccinated, unless the shelter administered routine vaccinations while the dog was in their care.

Fido's Fortress: Puppy Proofing Your Home

It’s safe to say, my dog has me well trained. My “best friend” since she was six weeks old, my precious pup is now a fourteen year old peke-a-poo, missing teeth, missing vision, and missing manners. She growls at me whenever she wants MY dinner, she awakes me at three a.m. so I can give her a drink from my glass and free her from having to walk the ten steps to her water bowl, and she bites me whenever I accidentally touch her as she sleeps in our bed (90 percent of the bed, she has decided, belongs to her ten pound frame). Yes, it’s fair to say, when it comes to my dog, I am nothing if not obedient.

I’d like to say it hasn’t always been like this; I’d like to claim that I once had the upper hand and behaved like, well, the superior species. But, the truth is, I never did. Even before I brought her home, I found myself running around and getting things ready for her arrival. I bought her everything she needed, stopping just short of getting her a diamond studded collar from Tiffany’s, and I puppy proofed my house; I puppy proofed my house like a maniac: there was no way my dog was going to get hurt in my, oh I’m sorry, her, home.

This brings me to the topic of puppy proofing. As essential as it is, it’s not that hard to overlook; new dog owners might find themselves forgetting to make a safe environment as they become so wrapped up simply in loving their puppy. Still, puppy proofing your house helps you assure that you will have a puppy to love. So, before you bring home your new bundle of joy, try to engage in the following:

Secure your cords: Like moths to flames, puppies have been known to flock towards electrical cords, placing them in their mouths, and chewing away. Not only does this ruin your cord, but it can give your puppy quite a shock. To avoid this, keep cords out of the area where your puppy will be. If it’s impossible to keep cords out completely – if your puppy is in the TV room, it might be hard to not have a cord for your plasma television – place them out of your puppy’s reach: hang them from something high, tape them to the wall, or purchase a wire cover.

Guard your Balcony: All puppies have some Christopher Columbus in them: they like to explore. While this is often harmless, when a puppy starts to explore high areas, such as a deck or upstairs balcony, they run the risk of falling. Since you probably won’t be able to keep an eye on your puppy twenty four hours a day, buying a balcony guard is your best bet. A balcony guard allows your puppy to explore higher areas all while assuring that he or she won’t suddenly be thrown off course.

Latch Your Cabinets: If there’s one thing puppies know how to do, it’s get into things they shouldn’t. Cabinets, particularly ones that house kitchen or bathroom trash, are prime goals for puppy pursuing. If successful in their venture, puppies can find things in cabinets that could harm them: household cleaners, chicken bones, mouse traps, bleach. Simply putting latches on your cabinets can assure your puppy won’t be able to open the door on this danger.

Hang Your Plants: I remember my dog, as a puppy, had an affinity for getting into plants. Sometimes she would dig them up, sometimes she would pee on them, and sometimes – mistaking them for a salad bar – she would eat them. This, turns out, wasn't a good idea: some plants are edible, but others can be poisonous. Your veterinarian can provide you with a list of plants that are harmful to pets, including Aloe Vera, tomato plants, rhododendron, English Ivy, and mistletoe. Instead of leaving these, or any plants, on ground level, hang them from the ceiling. Chances are your puppy won’t figure out how to use a ladder.

Puppy proofing your home can take time and money. But, it’s worth it all in the end. It helps us keep our best friend safe, which speaks to those of us who know that there is no such thing as “just a dog.”

Dog behavior problems - canine behavioral problem

There are many behavioral problems in dogs that leave us wondering, why are they doing that? What are the causes and what can I do to stop such behavior? The more frequently reported behavioral problems are described below.

Destructive behavior
Destructive behavior is one of the most common complaints from dog owners, and hence necessitates the most in-depth discussion. A dog quickly ceases to be ‘man’s best friend’ when he/she scratches up a prized rug, chews up a favourite sweater, or eats an expensive pair of shoes. Destructive behavior is due to many causes, including separation anxiety. Many owners are gone from the house for many hours during the day, and the result is that the dog has more opportunity to develop destructive behavior The problem with this is that owners come home and see the chewed object and will punish the dog at that time. The dog will not associate the act of destruction to the punishment because they will not understand exactly why you are upset. They will act ‘guilty’ because they know you are upset, but they will not associate your anger with their act of destroying the object. Therefore, do not punish a dog for its behavior unless you catch him in the act.

Another reason for destructive behavior is lack of environmental stimulation. Boredom may be a cause, or at least a contributing factor, especially in young or large animals that do not receive adequate exercise. Animals need environmental stimulation. Obtaining a second pet or providing interesting and interactive toys for the dog may help. For example, a hollow toy filled with solid treats or peanut butter encourages the dog to interact with the ball to get at the treats.

Finally, destructive behavior could also occur due to barrier frustration. This may result if the dog has been punished by being put in a closed room or into a fenced yard, or it may be caused by the presence of something very desirable on the other side of the barrier. In these cases, the dog will try hard to break through the barrier and may destroy the door frame or door knobs, for example.

To treat destructive problems, one must determine the exact cause of the behavior and remedy the cause accordingly. For example, a young dog that is chewing furniture but not doorways is mostly likely in need of more environmental stimulation. Increasing exercise, providing another animal companion, putting the radio on, decreasing anxiety, or giving a chew toys only when the owners are away are other treatments.

Preventing such behavior is always easier than trying to treat it. Puppy owners should avoid giving the puppy old shoes or a piece of rug to chew on because the animal will not be able to differentiate between an old sneaker and the new leather dress shoe. Dog toys should be provided, but they should be a type and texture that the dog can easily distinguish from forbidden objects. It is also a good idea to be consistent when presenting toys to the dog and make it obvious that the toy indeed belongs to the dog. Puppies should be left in their crate when the owners are gone from the house. The crate should not be the place where you confine the dog as punishment. The crate is their ‘den’ and the puppy should learn that it is their own safe haven.